Jaimie Sortino is a name that has been around for almost as long as the Adelaide Fashion Festival and just like the runway shows and productions that put Adelaide on the fashion map, the Sortino name has grown to gain national and international recognition. It could be said that the couture designer has carved his own space in a coveted market filled with giants. With his gowns worn on red carpets, commissioned for stage works and even hanging proudly in a New York showroom, Jaimie Sortino is a name that is no longer looking to make it, no. Jaimie Sortino has well and truly arrived and his latest collection entitled State of Grace will be both a celebration and reflection of his global outlook and just how far he has come.
We caught up with Jamie in between fittings to find out a little more about the inspiration about his anticipated latest collection.
What came first, the silhouette or the fabric?
This collection was more focused on the silhouettes, creating feminine but fun shapes that also complemented the fabric.
Tell us about the fabric and where it was sourced?
This is a silk satin, sourced through my trip to India last year. I feel in love it straight way. It has great drape qualities plus a real elegance to it.
What is the most difficult aspect of working with this fabric?
Keeping the fabric soft and not heavy, it can easily be made to look heavy and bulky, it look a lot of draping to really get that balance of movement but also structural drape.
How many sketches did you create before this one made the final cut?
(BRB going to count!). 50 sketches! Which then I flat lay them all out and edit a story which brings the vision and creativity of the collection to life. I find this process very organic, I might obsessive over it for days then not look at it for days.
What makes this dress unique?
It’s definitely a new silhouette and style for my label. It’s a more glamorous shape.
Why is it your favourite piece from the collection?
It was the first sketch I did in New York sitting in the state library.To me it’s the heart of collection, it delivers the story of the collection. When I designed this look it was a real moment of “this is the theme!”
How many hours have gone into creating this piece?
Countless! It was a lot of trial and error to get the draping spot on. Making time took about 2 weeks once we had figured out the perfect balance.
What is the most technically difficult aspect of this dress?
Definitely the draping. There is a lot of stepping back and reviewing the gown. Is the balance right, is the drape flattering and feminine is the skirt the right shape, should it be fuller. These where the difficult parts of this gown. Which does allow the rest of the collection to flow a lot easier.
How many times has the dress morphed and changed from concept to finish?
Surprisingly a much! (The collection is shot so I can’t change now!) this one has stayed pretty true to the original sketch.
If the dress were a city it would be…
That’s easy – New York.
Who would you love to see this dress worn by?
Nicole Kidman or Cate Blanchett.
What does it mean to be part of the AFF family?
Coming into my 8th year with AFF the family bond is better than ever. We are all so supportive of each other. That makes our fashion industry so special and wonderful.
How has this collection developed or changed form your previous runway shows?
I feel really liberated by this collection. It has changed my approach to design. It’s definitely a fresh look which am so excited to share with everyone. Personally it’s my best body of work. Am so proud of the gowns and the story it tells.
Who should come to see your runway show and why?
People that like to dream.